A mortice lock is 'morticed' into the door. If you are replacing a mortice lock, it is important that you know the size of the your existing lock to ensure that your new lock will fit into the same hole. Mortice locks are available in sashlock or deadlock variants, so it is important that you know which one you require.
Measuring the backset
The measurement from the front plate of the lock to the back of the lock case. A number of different backsets are available but the most common in the UK are 64mm (2.5") or 76mm (3").
Measuring the centres
If you are fitting a sashlock to enable the lock to be operated in conjunction with a door handle, you will need to measure from centre of the 'follower' - the hole where the handle spindle goes, to the centre of the keyhole.
Typically in the UK, the most common size is 57mm, although other sizes are available,
Sashlock or Deadlock?
A sashlock is typically used on back doors and has a latch and a bolt. The latch is operated by a handle and the bolt is operated by key.
A deadlock is typically used on front doors in conjunction with a nightlatch and has a bolt only. The bolt is operated by key.
How many levers?
A mortice lock is either operated by a euro cylinder or by integral levers, The more levers a morice lock has, the more secure it is. Look for a British Standard 5 lever mortice lock for all external timber doors.
How To Fit A Mortice Lock
You will need
1 battery drill
some drill bits, most importantly flat woodcutting bits
1 mortise lock kit which includes:
1 lock body and key
1 strike plate
1 face plate
1 key cover
some screws
1 chisel
1 tape measure
1 pencil
1 hammer
some masking tape
Step 2: Mark the lock position
Decide on a height for your lock. Hold the lock flat against the door edge at your chosen height, and draw around it with your pencil. Use your tape measure to find the centre point on the side of the door. Mark it with a pencil and draw a longer vertical line through the point.
Step 3: Select a drill bit
Select a flat drill bit that is roughly 2mm or 1/16th inch thicker than the lock body. This will ensure a comfortable fit. Hold the lock against the drill bit. Use the masking tape to mark the depth of the lock on the bit, and attach it to the drill.
Step 4: Drill
Before you start drilling, remember your drill safety. Put on your goggles. Make sure all loose items of clothing, jewellery and hair are tucked away. Clear the area of any potential hazards and find a steady standing position.
You may want to wedge the door open to help steady your drilling.
Start just beneath your top pencil mark and drill a series of overlapping holes down to your bottom pencil outline. Drill to the depth marked and take care to keep the bit horizontal and square to the door edge.
Step 5: Straighten up the edges
Before you pick up your chisel, remember your chisel safety. Make sure that you are wearing safety goggles and clear the area of potential hazards. Find a steady position and remember to watch your fingers when you do start chiseling.
Firstly clear out any wood chippings with the chisel. Then use your chisel to tidy up the edges of the mortise recess so that the mortise will fit. Keep the flat edge of the chisel facing outwards as you work and chisel to the depth of the recess. Scrape out any woodchips.
Step 6: Mark the face plate
Now slide the lock into the recess and place the face plate over it. Draw around it.
Step 7: Make a recess for the face plate
Begin by making a series of cuts on the edges of your pencil outline. Now chisel out the rest of the recess. Be careful, because if you chisel out too large a recess, it will be difficult to correct.
Keep testing the fit to see that the face plate lies flush with the door.
Step 8: Mark the key holes
Hold the lock against the face of the door so that the plate is flush with the door edge. Mark through the key hole with your pencil, and then do the same on the other side of the door.
Step 9: Drill the key holes
Select a drill bit that is a little larger than the key hole, and insert it into your drill.
Remember your drill safety.
Drill along one pencil line through to the lock recess. Repeat this on the other side of the door.
Step 10: Test the key hole
Insert the mortise into its recess and check that the key works smoothly.
Step 11: Attach the face plate
You may want to drill small pilot holes for these screws, but in most cases you can just drill them straight in.
Step 12: Fit keyhole cover
Hold the key hole over the key hole and drill it into place. Repeat on the other side of the door.
Step 13: Mark the bolt position on the frame
Turn the key to extend the bolt. Push the door to, and draw around the bolt on the frame.
Step 14: Mark the strike plate position
Measure the distance between the inside edge of the door and the strike plate. Mark this measurement on the door frame. Align the strike plate with the pencil line you have just made. The bolt recess must be positioned according to the marks on the edge of the frame. Draw in and around the strike plate.
Step 15: Cut bolt and strike plate recesses
Remember your chisel safety. Following your marks, chisel out a hole for the bolt. First cut around your pencil outline, then chisel out the recess. Check the fit of the bolt in the recess.
Then chisel out a shallow recess for the strike plate so that it lies flush with the door frame. Be careful not to chisel too deep a recess as this will be hard to undo. Keep testing the pate until it fits snugly.
Step 16: Attach the strike plate
Remember your drill safety. Drill the strike plate into the frame.
Step 17: Test
Now test your handy work. Check that the door closes easily and that the key turns smoothly.
A circular saw is a power tool that may come with a power cable (cord), or it may be cordless, and using a circular saw means attention to safety must be paid.
Types and uses for circular saw blades.
The circular saw blade range in composition, number of teeth (cutting bits or surfaces), the amount of set (the width of the kerf removed by the blade), and the blade quality.
One of these circular saws will probably have a plain HSS (high speed steel) saw blade in it when it is bought new.
TCT (tungsten carbide tipped) blades are much more durable, especially in tough hardwoods. Also plywood and composite boards are hard on blades so TCT blades are needed on them.
Blades with fewer teeth (say 28) and with less rake to the face of the teeth, are designed for ripping along the length of timber, with the grain. They typically give a quick rough cut. They are cheap to buy and cheap to sharpen, since they have less teeth.
Blades with more teeth (say 40) are designed for crosscut type work. They give a lot neater cut in most circumstances.
Abrasive blades are made from carborundum or other abrasive materials bonded together in a resin or other synthetic binding material, and are used for cutting concrete or metal. They tend to wear away rather quickly, but for small projects, they are inexpensive and make fast cuts.
Diamond rim blades. These blades are made of special alloy metals with industrial diamonds embedded in the rim (around the outside diameter of the blade), and are for cutting hard concrete, cement composite materials, and masonry products like block or brick.
Special tempered allow blades. These blades have tempered carbon steel teeth, which are very fine (small, and closely spaced) for cutting sheet metal like galvanised roofing metal, or aluminum, copper, or brass tubing.
Dado blades. These are blades which can actually be adjusted to cut different widthkerfs (the width of the material removed in the blade path). These blades make it much faster and easier for cutting dados and rabbetts, used for joining lumber.
Trim and panelling blades. These blades have fine teeth for making smooth, accurate cuts on finished materials like mouldings and panelling.
