How to choose cordless drill -Buyers guide

Cordless drills are power tools with rechargeable batteries as power source. Cordless power tools have the advantage of mains-independent operation. They are usually small in size and therefore easy to operate. They do not require a mains power cable, operate in the low-voltage range and can therefore be used safely in wet environments and outdoors. Cordless drills are best choice for nearly all hand held drilling tasks on any DIY project. Cordless drills come in various sizes and with a number of different features. 
In order to choose the right cordless drill, you will need to consider what uses you will need your cordless drill to perform and what its main features are.

Cordless drills batteries

Battery strength is one of the most important factors when choosing any cordless tool. For power tool operation these three types of storage batteries are mainly used. They differ with respect to their electrode materials and are named accordingly:

·         nickel-cadmium storage batteries (NiCd batteries)

·         nickel-metal-hydride storage batteries (NiMh batteries)

·         lithium-ion storage batteries (Li-Ion batteries).

Be wary when evaluating battery strength, higher voltage batteries are not always the best. The type of battery plays a big factor in how the drill will perform over a period of time. Ah (Amp hour) is where the cheaper tools fall on their face: 2.4 Ah are effective for most jobs, 1.4 Ah are not for using the drill on daily basis.

Effect on environmental design is also a factor: Li-Ion and NiMh batteries do not contain cadmium like NiCd cells, thus making them more environment friendly don't contain toxic cadmium, which can leach into groundwater if spent nickel-cadmium (NiCd) batteries are thrown out with trash instead of recycled. The disadvantage of NiMh batteries is that they have up to 50% fewer recharge cycles.

The problem of cordless drills battery is, the more voltage, the more weight. Consider this before you make your purchase.

When purchasing a cordless drill, check to see if you get an additional battery. If not, it might be a wise decision to purchase an extra one.

Power level - voltage

The power level of the drill is another important feature of the drill you choose. You will need higher voltage if you typically work on heavy materials. A good idea to buy a drill with voltage a little higher than your most demanding need, so you won't have to worry about enough power.

Cordless power tools have standard voltages between 2.4 volt and 36 volt. The following voltage groups apply in general:

·         2.4; 4.8 volt for small power tools such as housing-grip screwdrivers.

·         7.2; 9.6; 12; 14.4 volt - this voltage group is most common.

·         18; 24, 36 volt - most professional power tools with high performance requirements belong to this voltage group.

Higher voltage cordless drills provide more power, but are also more expensive.

Cordless batteries charger

You will also need a charger when you buy your drill, manufacturers always include a charger when you buy your drill, these can take from 15 minutes up to 3 hours to completely charge an empty cell, this depends upon the type and quality of the drill/charger again with the better quality/faster chargers been sold with the more expensive drills, again look for Makita, Bosch and Dewalt as the market leaders. A fast recharge is not always good for the battery as recharging can generate excess heat which can shorten the life of a cell, again top quality units offer electronic thermal protection to prevent this happening.

Chuck size

Chuck size is another factor in determining the purchase of a cordless drill. For the average homeowner for a general-purpose tool a 3/8" should be fine, however for heavy-duty work a half-inch (1/2") chuck drill should be considered.

The keyless chuck is a practical standard today. All new drills are equipped with keyless chuck, they are much better than they used to be and can grip any drill or screwdriver bit securely.

What is 'Hammer mode;

1/2" cordless drill models often include a "hammer drill" feature which has little practical application for woodworking, but is great for drilling holes in masonry.

Drill Speed

The simplest models of cordless drills run at a fixed speed (300 RPM). Better models have dual speeds (300 RPM - 800 RPM).

Variable speed

One of the most important features you will want to look for in a cordless drill is variable speed. Hard materials need a slower speed, soft materials a higher speed.

Most drills also have a variable speed trigger to make starting holes easier.

An excellent feature to have is an adjustable clutch, which will change the speed automatically depending on the density of the material. If you are not used to a cordless drill and how to adjust the speed, this may be ideal.

Reversible motor

Reversible motor will allow you to back out any screws that you drill in.

Adjustable clutch

An addition feature that makes screw driving more efficient is an adjustable torque clutch. This popular feature regulates the twisting power, called torque, that's applied to a screw, which simplifies jobs like driving multiple screws to the same depth.

Torque clutch can be mechanically blocked by a further switch position. This switch position makes the maximum torque which the motor can generate available for the drilling of large-diameter or very deep holes which requires the application of high torques.

Generally a drill/driver has around 8-16 torque settings and you can select the best setting for your work.

Most drill/drivers also have a drill setting where the clutch is ignored. This allow the motor's full torque be transmitted to the chuck and is generally used for drilling rather than screw driving.

Drill's weight

Weight of the drill can actually give you a good idea of how well its built, after all, steel gears are heavier than plastic ones. Bigger voltage drills weigh more, around 3.5 pounds for a 9.6 volt model up to around 8 or 9 pounds for a 24 volt model, so consider weight before you go for big drill. The new lithium-ion (LiIon) batteries offer a considerable weight saving over NiCd batteries.

Additional features

·         Battery meter - An LED gauge on the power pack shows remaining power.

·         Second handle - additional attachment for two-handed drilling.

·         Work light - An LED light helps in low-light conditions.

Conclusion

Within the last decade cordless power tools have reached a market share of over 25 % of all power tools sold world-wide. The reasons for this are their easy handling and their performance capacity which was increased substantially in recent years. With the expected improvement in battery technology, the market share will increase even further. 

Fitting a mortice lock

Mortice Locks


Measuring:

Case Depth (A)

Backset (B)

Case Height (C)

Forend Length (D)

Forend Width (E)

A mortice lock is 'morticed' into the door.  If you are replacing a mortice lock, it is important that you know the size of the your existing lock to ensure that your new lock will fit into the same hole.  Mortice locks are available in sashlock or deadlock variants, so it is important that you know which one you require.

Measuring the backset

The measurement from the front plate of the lock to the back of the lock case.  A number of different backsets are available but the most common in the UK are 64mm (2.5") or 76mm (3").

Measuring the centres

If you are fitting a sashlock to enable the lock to be operated in conjunction with a door handle, you will need to measure from centre of the 'follower' - the hole where the handle spindle goes, to the centre of the keyhole.

Typically in the UK, the most common size is 57mm, although other sizes are available,

Sashlock or Deadlock?

A sashlock is typically used on back doors and has a latch and a bolt.  The latch is operated by a handle and the bolt is operated by key.

A deadlock is typically used on front doors in conjunction with a nightlatch and has a bolt only.  The bolt is operated by key.

How many levers?

A mortice lock is either operated by a euro cylinder or by integral levers,  The more levers a morice lock has, the more secure it is.  Look for a British Standard 5 lever mortice lock for all external timber doors.

How To Fit A Mortice Lock

You will need

1 battery drill some drill bits, most importantly flat woodcutting bits 1 mortise lock kit which includes: 1 lock body and key 1 strike plate 1 face plate 1 key cover some screws 1 chisel 1 tape measure 1 pencil 1 hammer some masking tape Step 2: Mark the lock position Decide on a height for your lock. Hold the lock flat against the door edge at your chosen height, and draw around it with your pencil. Use your tape measure to find the centre point on the side of the door. Mark it with a pencil and draw a longer vertical line through the point. Step 3: Select a drill bit Select a flat drill bit that is roughly 2mm or 1/16th inch thicker than the lock body. This will ensure a comfortable fit. Hold the lock against the drill bit. Use the masking tape to mark the depth of the lock on the bit, and attach it to the drill. Step 4: Drill Before you start drilling, remember your drill safety. Put on your goggles. Make sure all loose items of clothing, jewellery and hair are tucked away. Clear the area of any potential hazards and find a steady standing position. You may want to wedge the door open to help steady your drilling. Start just beneath your top pencil mark and drill a series of overlapping holes down to your bottom pencil outline. Drill to the depth marked and take care to keep the bit horizontal and square to the door edge. Step 5: Straighten up the edges Before you pick up your chisel, remember your chisel safety. Make sure that you are wearing safety goggles and clear the area of potential hazards. Find a steady position and remember to watch your fingers when you do start chiseling. Firstly clear out any wood chippings with the chisel. Then use your chisel to tidy up the edges of the mortise recess so that the mortise will fit. Keep the flat edge of the chisel facing outwards as you work and chisel to the depth of the recess. Scrape out any woodchips. Step 6: Mark the face plate Now slide the lock into the recess and place the face plate over it. Draw around it. Step 7: Make a recess for the face plate Begin by making a series of cuts on the edges of your pencil outline. Now chisel out the rest of the recess. Be careful, because if you chisel out too large a recess, it will be difficult to correct. Keep testing the fit to see that the face plate lies flush with the door. Step 8: Mark the key holes Hold the lock against the face of the door so that the plate is flush with the door edge. Mark through the key hole with your pencil, and then do the same on the other side of the door. Step 9: Drill the key holes Select a drill bit that is a little larger than the key hole, and insert it into your drill. Remember your drill safety. Drill along one pencil line through to the lock recess. Repeat this on the other side of the door. Step 10: Test the key hole Insert the mortise into its recess and check that the key works smoothly. Step 11: Attach the face plate You may want to drill small pilot holes for these screws, but in most cases you can just drill them straight in. Step 12: Fit keyhole cover Hold the key hole over the key hole and drill it into place. Repeat on the other side of the door. Step 13: Mark the bolt position on the frame Turn the key to extend the bolt. Push the door to, and draw around the bolt on the frame. Step 14: Mark the strike plate position Measure the distance between the inside edge of the door and the strike plate. Mark this measurement on the door frame. Align the strike plate with the pencil line you have just made. The bolt recess must be positioned according to the marks on the edge of the frame. Draw in and around the strike plate. Step 15: Cut bolt and strike plate recesses Remember your chisel safety. Following your marks, chisel out a hole for the bolt. First cut around your pencil outline, then chisel out the recess. Check the fit of the bolt in the recess. Then chisel out a shallow recess for the strike plate so that it lies flush with the door frame. Be careful not to chisel too deep a recess as this will be hard to undo. Keep testing the pate until it fits snugly. Step 16: Attach the strike plate Remember your drill safety. Drill the strike plate into the frame. Step 17: Test Now test your handy work. Check that the door closes easily and that the key turns smoothly.

How to use a circular saw

A circular saw is a power tool that may come with a power cable (cord), or it may be cordless, and using a circular saw means attention to safety must be paid.

 Types and uses for circular saw blades.

The circular saw blade range in composition, number of teeth (cutting bits or surfaces), the amount of set (the width of the kerf removed by the blade), and the blade quality.

• One of these circular saws will probably have a plain HSS (high speed steel) saw blade in it when it is bought new.
• TCT (tungsten carbide tipped) blades are much more durable, especially in tough hardwoods. Also plywood and composite boards are hard on blades so TCT blades are needed on them.
  • Blades with fewer teeth (say 28) and with less rake to the face of the teeth, are designed for ripping along the length of timber, with the grain. They typically give a quick rough cut. They are cheap to buy and cheap to sharpen, since they have less teeth.
  • Blades with more teeth (say 40) are designed for crosscut type work. They give a lot neater cut in most circumstances.
• Abrasive blades are made from carborundum or other abrasive materials bonded together in a resin or other synthetic binding material, and are used for cutting concrete or metal. They tend to wear away rather quickly, but for small projects, they are inexpensive and make fast cuts.
• Diamond rim blades. These blades are made of special alloy metals with industrial diamonds embedded in the rim (around the outside diameter of the blade), and are for cutting hard concrete, cement composite materials, and masonry products like block or brick.
• Special tempered allow blades. These blades have tempered carbon steel teeth, which are very fine (small, and closely spaced) for cutting sheet metal like galvanised roofing metal, or aluminum, copper, or brass tubing.
• Dado blades. These are blades which can actually be adjusted to cut different widthkerfs (the width of the material removed in the blade path). These blades make it much faster and easier for cutting dados and rabbetts, used for joining lumber.
• Trim and panelling blades. These blades have fine teeth for making smooth, accurate cuts on finished materials like mouldings and panelling.